At Christmastime in Provence, in the south of France, there’s a tradition of having a Christmas meal consisting largely of vegetables, followed by 13 desserts. 13 signifies the number of people at the last supper – Christ and his 12 apostles. The table should be decorated with 3 candlesticks, representing the Trinity. The meal and dessert are eaten before the family goes to midnight mass on Christmas.

Traditionally, a place was also left at the table for ones ancestors. The leftover food was left out all night. This way the ancestors could take part in the meal too. (There’s a similar Day of the Dead custom in Mexico, of leaving out food and a place at the table for ancestors.)

It is very important that there are at least 13 desserts – also called Les Treize Desserts de Noël. The 13 desserts can vary depending upon tradition. Generally, they are:

1. Black Nougats – Symbolizing evil – Hard candy made with honey and almonds.
2. White Nougats – Symbolizing good – Soft candy made with sugar, eggs, pistachios, honey, and almonds.

These four are supposed to symbolize beggars, represented by four religious orders (Franciscans, Dominicans, Carmelite Nuns, Augustinians):

3. Dried Figs
4. Almonds
5. Hazelnuts or other nuts
6. Dried Grapes

The symbol of Mary and Jesus’ safe journey from the East:

7. Dates

Some of the other desserts eaten, depending on the region, are:

Oranges
Clementines
Apples
Pears
Grapes
Quince Paste
Melon
Calissons d’Aix (almond-paste pastry with sugar icing)
Oil Cake called Fougasse or Pompe à l’huile (made with Orange Flower Water and Olive Oil)

Finally with these desserts, one drinks cooked wine, representing Jesus himself.

One must have a taste of each dessert to have good luck for the whole year.

Bon appétit!

-Lisa

Many thanks to Monique Palomares of Mama Lisa’s World en français for telling me about this tradition!